MOT Sections

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Steering & Suspension

MOT checks for steering & suspension on motorcycles are divided into five sections. Please click on a link below to skip to the section of interest.

steering controls :: steering system :: front suspension and wheel bearings :: rear suspension and wheel bearings :: wheel alignment

• The bikes handlebars, grips,clamps and yokes must be completely secure
• Forks, handlebars and yokes cannot be deformed, fractured, cracked or excessively corroded
• Flexible handlebar mountings cannot be excessively deteriorated
• One switch must operate both lights
• Steering dampers must be correctly fitted and not impede control of your motorbike
• Any fairing or leg shield fitted should not impede the steering
• Steering lock stops must be fitted, correctly adjusted and effective

With front wheel clear of the ground turn the steering from lock to lock. There should be:

• no fouling between any moving and fixed part of your motorcycle
• sufficient clearance for the handlebar grips to be properly grasped and controls operated
• no restrictions to movement of the bars caused by cables becoming taught, trapped or caught
• no significant change in engine speed

There should be no tightness or roughness when your motorcycles handlebars are turned lock to lock. Also, there shouldn’t be excessive free play or movement in the steering head bearings or steering linkage. You can check this by applying the front brake and gently pushing the handlebars forward then backward or ideally by applying pressure to the front wheel whilst it is raised in the air as someone else holds the brake on for you. This way you can visually tell if any movement you may feel is actually as a result of movement in the forks.

note: excessively stiff steering can be caused by a defective or badly adjusted steering damper in which case it is down to the motorcycle MOT test technician’s discretion to test ride your bike to establish whether stability or control is adversely affected. They may also adjust the damper within tolerance if adjustment is possible. You will be informed of this when you receive your test results.

• The front suspension components must all be securely fitted and in a good state of repair
• There shouldn’t be excessive wear or free play in any component
• Suspension springs cannot be loose, cracked, fractured or so badly corroded that their structure is seriously weakened
• Suspension springs cannot be repaired by welding
• All wheel spindles, locking nuts and other locking devices must be secure
• Shock absorbers must not leak
• There should be no tightness or roughness when the wheels are turned
• Mudguards must be securely fitted especially if they form part of the fork bracing assembly
• Load bearing components cannot be loose, excessively corroded, distorted or poorly repaired

note: light misting or some pitting on a fork stanchion are not reasons enough on their own for a motorbike to fail unless this has caused damage to the damper seals. The motorcycle MOT test technician may pull back any rubber gaitors etc to conduct the examination if it’s possible without dismantling but they *must* correctly refit them afterwards.

The MOT requires that the damping be checked which can easily be done by applying the front brake and depressing the suspension as far as you are able several times. The forks should not be stiff and nor should they bounce up and down, just react to the pressure you are applying. Any fouling between fixed and moving parts which affects the movement of the suspension would fail the bike’s MOT.

Modifications

The VOSA handbook says that an MOT certificate should be refused if any ‘deliberate modification’ has significantly reduced the original strength of a load bearing member or it’s supporting structure.

• The rear suspension components must all be securely fitted and in a good state of repair
• There shouldn’t be excessive wear or free play in any component
• Suspension springs cannot be loose, cracked, fractured or so badly corroded that their structure is seriously weakened
• Suspension springs cannot be repaired by welding
• All wheel spindles, locking nuts and other locking devices must be secure
• Shock absorbers must not leak
• There should be no tightness or roughness when the wheels are turned
• Load bearing components cannot be loose, excessively corroded, distorted or poorly repaired
• Pivots cannot be seized, excessively worn or insecure

note: if you have twin shocks on your motorbike they should be equally adjusted at either side. If they are not the motorcycle MOT test technician will issue an advisory to this effect.

The MOT requires that the damping be checked which can easily be done by sitting on your bike and depressing the suspension as far as you are able several times. The shocks should not be stiff and nor should they bounce up and down, just react to the pressure you are applying. Any fouling between fixed and moving parts which affects the movement of the suspension would fail the bike’s MOT.

With the front wheel held upright and inline with your motorcycle’s frame – using either a wheel clamp or another person – place a straight edge or cord against the rear tyre, parallel to it and as high off the ground as the bike’s permanent fixtures will allow. By sighting along this edge you will be able to see if both wheels are inline with each other and your motorcycle’s frame and also check if they are centrally aligned and not offset in any way. (An example of ‘offset’ would be if you put both spacers on one side of the rear wheel instead of one on either side.)

Lights And Signals

MOT checks for lights and signals on motorcycles are divided into seven sections. Please click on a link below to skip to the section of interest.

front and rear position lamps :: headlamps :: stop lamps :: rear reflectors :: indicators :: headlamp aim :: audible warnings

note: the front position light, or sidelight, is considered separate from the motorcycle’s headlight and at least 50% of all light sources within a lamp must function. If lamps are obscured by other parts of the bike they will fail.

• The front light must emit a white light unless it is within a yellow headlamp and the rear must always be red
• Both lights must illuminate immediately once the switch is pressed, be securely mounted and not flicker when tapped
• The switch must also be securely mounted and again, tapping shouldn’t affect the lights
• One switch must operate both lights

Daylight MOT

If a motorbike has no lights at all, or they are taped, painted or permanently disconnected so as to emit no light whatsoever you can still get an MOT pass but you will receive an advisory note stating that the bike should only be used during the hours of daylight and not during times of seriously reduced visibility.

Fog Lights

The motorcycle MOT does not cover rear fog lights or amber lights within the indicator lens of your bike.

• Your motorbike’s headlamp must emit either yellow or white light
• It must light immediately the switch is pressed
• It should not be adversely affected by any other lamp or the horn
• It must not flicker when tapped or when the switch is tapped
• Both headlight and switch must be securely attached to the motorcycle.

Twin headlights

Only one or both headlamps need to illuminate for either dipped or main beam and they must be mounted one on top of the other or symmetrically and no more than 200mm apart.

Mopeds

For the purposes of the MOT mopeds are only required to have a functioning dipped beam.

Pre-1931 Motorcycles

If your bike was built before 1 January 1931 it doesn’t need a headlight at all but if there is one it must function correctly.

• Your motorbike’s stop lamp must emit only a steady red light
• It must light immediately once the switch(es) is pressed and switch off when released
• It should not be adversely affected by any other lamp
• It must be securely attached to the bike and not flicker when tapped
• Both brakes must operate the stop lamp unless the the was manufactured with only one switch

Slow Vehicles & Mopeds

Bikes which cannot exceed 25mph do not have to have a stop lamp fitted nor do mopeds which were first registered before 1 April 1986 but if fitted they must function correctly.

• Your bike must be fitted with one unobscured red reflector
• It must be securely fitted and reflect squarely to the rear
• It must be positioned along the motorcycles longitudinal centre line

Extra Reflectors and Tape

Only one reflector is required for the MOT but your bike will not fail for having more. Unfortunately reflective tape is not considered satisfactory.

• Indicators must be fitted to a motorcycle and emit only orange light
• They must flash on and off, not just dim and brighten
• They must flash between 60 and 120 times per minute
• They must be visible when riding or have a functioning idiot light
• They must be securely fitted and so must the switch
• They must not be adversely affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn

Motorcycles Registered Pre-1986

Any motorcycle first registered before 1st August 1986 does not need indicators to pass an MOT

Slow and Off-Road Vehicles

Bikes which cannot exceed 30mph or off-road bikes designed to carry just the rider do not need indicators but if fitted they must function correctly.

note: a specialist piece of equipment is needed to correctly check the aim of your motorbikes headlight but if you follow the guidelines below we would be happy to make minor adjustments if necessary free of charge.

• A motorcycle headlight should point directly forward and slightly downwards
• The dipped beam must kick-up to the offside of the bike

• Your bike must be fitted with a working continuous tone horn or horns
• It must be loud enough to be heard by other road users
• It must not make a harsh or grating noise
• It must be easily operable whilst riding

front and rear position lamps :: headlamps :: stop lamps :: rear reflectors :: indicators :: headlamp aim :: audible warnings

Motorcycle MOT Checklist

Below is a quick MOT checklist. For more in-depth information about each section of the motorcycle MOT just click on the titles or the relevant area on the bike image above.

Make sure all your lights, brake lights and indicators work. You must also display a red reflector to the rear of your bike and have a functioning horn.

Nothing should prevent the smooth rotation of the moving parts of your bike. This includes badly routed cables and worn head stock or wheel bearings. Forks or rear shocks mustn’t leak and should be firmly attached and filled with the correct amount of oil.

Easy one this. Your bike’s brakes need to work and there should be a decent amount of brake material standing proud of the backing plate. Grooved or worn disks or drums will also fail.

Mopeds must have clearly visible tread on both tyres whilst motorcycles must have at least 1mm. Bulges or cracks in the side wall are not good at all, nor are cuts over 25mm and and everything must be seated correctly.

If your motorbike has sidecar it must be securely fitted, the tyres and suspension must be up to the standard of the rest of the bike and all three wheels of the combination should point in the same direction.

Fairly obviously loose parts or missing engine bolts will do you no favours. Rider footrests must be fitted and secure and if there is a pillion seat there must be a second set as well. Enough corrosion to affect the structure of the motorcycle will fail the MOT too, so check headstocks, swing arms and suspension mounting points etc.

Put simply exhausts which leak or are too loud, or both, will not pass. Nor will anything stamped with ‘not for road use’ or anything which leaks fuel.

note: The annual motorcycle MOT test is simply a thorough check of all the components which are essential to keep your bike roadworthy. If your motorcycle fails this MOT checklist it is almost always because it would be unsafe for you or other road users if the bike were ridden on public roads – with the obvious exception of illegal number plates, which aren’t a danger to anything except your licence and your MOT pass.